“Secretum meum mihi,” (“my secret is mine.”) was St. Edith's Stein's cryptic response when her best friend asked why she converted. We serve up interviews, historical sketches, Bible studies, book reviews and essays for Catholic women. MY SECRET IS MINE is for women with an audacious hope: that the Messiah makes all things new.
Why visit Milledgeville, Georgia? If you have to ask this question, you need not bother – fans of Southern gothic writer Flannery O’Connor will know why.
The antebellum capitol of Georgia, Milledgeville reinvented itself after the state government moved to Atlanta in 1868. The economic engines keeping the town from dying included a military school, a college for women, and the largest “lunatic asylum” in the world.
Until I visited Milledgeville as a Flannery pilgrim, I had NO IDEA that a psychiatric facility loomed so large in her hometown. Opened in 1842 as the “Georgia State Lunatic, Idiot and Epileptic Asylum,” it is now called Central State Hospital. At the time of O’Connor’s death in 1964, it served over 12,000 patients and had 6,000 employees, and was known as the largest psychiatric facility in the world. Today it serves just 200 patients.
Could it be that proximity to the hospital colored her worldview?
Flannery O’Connor attended Georgia State College for Women (now known as Georgia College and State University) before attaining a masters in fine arts from University of Iowa in 1946. Diagnosed with lupus and in failing health, she moved back to Andalusia Farm. Her mother cared for her and supported her writing until her death in 1964. Just standing in her bedroom/study brought tears of respect to my eyes. She worked so hard! And loved Jesus so much!
And, the peacocks outside were thrilled to see us.
The peacocks at Andalusia don't always show their plumage - but we got lucky!
A Weekend Visit:
The town’s tourism is newly growing, thanks to man-made Lake Sinclair nearby. It’s possible to enjoy a full weekend or even a week. Tours at both Andalusia and the Old Governor’s Mansion are led by students from the college. (Note that both are closed on holidays, and Thanksgiving and Christmas breaks.)
Andalusia Farm: Adults $7, Seniors 60+ $6, Students $2, Children under 6, free; 2628 N. Columbia Street Milledgeville, GA 31061; Phone: 478-445-8722
Old Governor’s Mansion: Adults $10, Seniors 60+ $7, Students $2, Children under 6 free; 120 S Clarke Street Milledgeville, GA 31061; Phone: 478-445-4545
(Both the Governor's Mansion and Andalusia) Open Tuesday - Saturday from 10 am – 4 pm; Sunday from 2 – 4 pm. (Tours start at the top of each hour. The last tour leaves the interpretive center/gift shop at 4 pm.)
Visit Flannery O’Connor’s Grave: Memory Hill Cemetery is within walking distance of the Old Governor’s Mansion. Turn left onto the first road on the left. Her grave is 11 lots down on the left. You’ll know her grave – it’s the one with all the pens left on it. (I dropped a red one.)
The closest airport is Atlanta, about 90 miles northwest. Savannah is about 160 miles southeast. You’ll have to rent a car to get to Milledgeville – and you’ll need it. The drive from Savannah is about two hours and less congested. (And, on your way back, visit the Flannery O’Connor Childhood Home, for true fans.)
Mass: Sacred Heart Catholic Church
Worship in the same church that Flannery O’Connor attended! Sunday Mass was a reverent Novus Ordo with traditional music selections sung with grace. Communicants could kneel at the altar to receive or receive on the hand standing up, with no drama. And they just celebrated their 150 year anniversary! Website seems to be updated regularly.
Mass Schedule: Saturday Vigil 5 pm, Sundays 8:30 am and 11 am
Daily Mass 12:10 daily with confession & adoration prior (check website)
Literally two blocks from the Catholic Church, this little Inn was so friendly! We loved the Glenna Guest Room, with antiques, a comfortable queen-size bed and private bath, complete with a clawfoot tub! The Lounge downstairs had a full bar (even cigars for sale!) and a bartending machine that worked like a Keurig for mixed drinks. We had to try it! There is also a nice pool out back. Totally charming – we will be back! One-night
$169 - $219. Each room has its own bathroom, and some are multi-room suites. Steps required to reach most rooms.
210 N. Jefferson Street 478-363-4123
Bungalow on the campus of Central State Hospital (Available through AirBnB or VRBO): Check out this 1928 bungalow actually on the grounds of the old Central State Hospital! The house has three bedrooms and one bath, a kitchen and screened in porch, and sleeps five adults. The home was across the street from the spacious superintendent’s house - and both were among the hundreds of homes for staff that were created to attract staff to work there. Rents were VERY affordable. But not any more. Note: Two-night stay minimum, $242/night. Buildings are closed to the public. There are no tours inside buildings.
The Inn at North Jefferson
Restaurants:
The Vault: Newest restaurant in town, and it shows! Set inside a renovated bank in downtown Milledgeville, The Vault unites history and elegance with an upscale menu and decent wine list. The original vault is now a wine cellar. The menu was an eclectic mix of Southern and American favorites, with some Italian mixed in. Prices were commensurate with other restaurants—and service was excellent.
Local Yolkal Café: If you stay at the Inn on North Jefferson, your breakfast is free at the Local Yolkal! And well worth it – the eggs benedict options were particularly yummy! There will be a line on weekends for brunch…so set aside extra time or come early. The prices were quite reasonable—and the wait staff were attentive and cheerful.
(Future Quirky pilgrimages will ALWAYS include the best Mass nearby, a few museums or sights to visit, a famous or infamous story of an interesting Catholic woman, and a couple good local hotels and restaurants.)
QUIRKY PILGRIMAGES IN THE FUTURE will be published in months that include a 5th Monday or Thursday.
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“Secretum meum mihi,” (“my secret is mine.”) was St. Edith's Stein's cryptic response when her best friend asked why she converted. We serve up interviews, historical sketches, Bible studies, book reviews and essays for Catholic women. MY SECRET IS MINE is for women with an audacious hope: that the Messiah makes all things new.
